The two-day bus journey to Ladakh (India) from Manali (also India) – imagine a full-size bus travelling as fast as possible on narrow, unpaved, crumbling mountain roads and driven by a Hindu who believes that death is just a natural aspect of life and that his soul will, you know, be reincarnated – was one of the most harrowing and exhilarating experiences of my life. And at the end, I got to see a Tibetan festival in a little village near Leh, where the audience was just as fascinating as the festival itself.


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